Mastering the Art of Soaking and Blocking Your Knitted Sweater
Aloha, fellow fiber enthusiasts! Today, we'll do a deep dive into a critical, but sometimes misunderstood, and unfortunately overlooked, step in the knitting process: soaking and blocking your sweater. This step is particularly crucial when you're knitting a sweater in pieces, as it ensures each part will fit together perfectly.
I want to give a special note of thanks to Ted (“silverpeacock” in most social places) for taking me up on sharing something in knitting that he has a question about— and my knitting friend, YOU can do the same. Simply click here: https://www.videoask.com/fccd7ng6e and share with me something that may be of interest to you. You can ask me about WIPs or whatever else is on your mind. Maybe I can help!
Now let’s dig in!
Blocking helps shape your knitted pieces and gives your final garment a polished, professional look. This post will walk you through the process of soaking and blocking, focusing primarily on wool yarns. We'll also touch on differences in blocking cotton and synthetic fibers.
I will be sharing the process I just used with my Ilya sweater, and as luck would have it, that sweater incorporates superwash wool by way of Madeline Tosh and Spincycle Yarn and a silk and wool split from Sundara Yarn. So I will be careful to share tips about working with wool, as well as silk and even acrylic (though there is none in my sweater).
So, let's gather our tools and get started! (heads up, I am just writing out this How-To, and presently do not have photos. At the time of creating this post, it has been the rainest stretch in my entire time here, and snapping photos has been nearly impossible. HOWEVER, you really do not need to see my work. The steps are straightforward and you are absolutely equipped to do this, so READ ON!)
Essential Tools for Blocking Your Handknits:
Before we begin, it's important to have the right tools:
Pins: Stainless steel or rustproof T-pins will hold your garment in shape as it dries. I lot of folks do not like working with pins, but trust me when I tell you they are a great tool to have on hand!
Blocking Wires: Ideal for ensuring straight edges on your knitted pieces. These are especially wonderful for shawls! I was skeptical at first, I mean after all, I had pins, but these are such great helps with keeping an even tension and slick edge.
A Blocking Mat: Any surface you can pin into without damage from moisture will work. Some people swear by these, while others prefer towels.
A Basin or Sink: For soaking your sweater. By basin, I mean you can use any large device that will hold water and allow the pieces to soak uncluttered. I do know loads of people who say you can stuff lots of things in at once to soak, and I find this only successful if I use my bathtub. Otherwise, the knits don’t have enough space to release dirt or residue without sharing it with the object under or around them.
A Towel: To remove excess water from the soaked pieces. This will need to be an additional towel to the one you may want to use in lieu of the blocking mats.
A Measuring Device: A soft tape measure or ruler is essential for getting the correct dimensions and aligning our piece to our pattern’s schematic.
Now that we have our tools, let's walk through the process step-by-step.
Step 1: Understanding Your Pattern Schematic
Before you begin soaking, take a close look at your pattern's schematic. This is a drawing that shows all the different pieces of your sweater and their dimensions. This will guide you in how much your knitting needs to stretch or contract during blocking. Measure and note the dimensions, keeping in mind that some stretching will occur during the blocking process. I know you think you will remember your measurements, but take a quick moment to write them down anyway. You may very well refer back to them if you use this same yarn again, or knit this pattern again. Honestly, as clever as we knitters are, we can not remember all the numbers, so write them down.
Step 2: The Soak
Fill your basin or sink with tepid, or lukewarm water and gently submerge the knitted pieces, being careful not to agitate them. Leave the pieces to soak for at least 20 minutes, ensuring the fibers are fully saturated. Some people do this step just with water, but I love to add some special no-rinse fiber wash. My favorites are Soak in Celebration! scent and Fig scent. I also love Eucalan Grapefruit and Sewrella Yarn Wool Wash in Warm Cashmere. These no-rinse formulas allow you to drain the water and move on to the next step with no additional soaking in water without detergent. If you find the water dingy with quite a bit of dirt collecting at the bottom, be extra kind to your knits and yourself, and lift the knits out gently, place them in a safe spot that won’t allow all the extra water to drain everywhere you don’t want it, refill water and add detergent and give the pieces another soak. It is worth the extra step. Clean knits are set up for success and a lovely, long life!
Step 3: Removing Excess Water
After we’ve left our knitting to soak awhile, we will need to move it gently into the next stage where we take it out of the water. Again **gently** lift your knitting out of the water, supporting its weight to avoid stretching. Once we overstretch or distort our knitting, it is tricky to go back, without putting it back in the water to start the process again. Once out of the water, I hold the piece still and allow the water to drain. There is usually quite a lot that will just run off, and I encourage a bit more to drain by lightly pressing my hand on the top to sandwich the piece between my hands. Once the water is no longer dripping heavily I move it onto the towel. Slowly roll up the towel, and press to remove excess water. I will carefully stand on the towel and let my weight press out more water. A word of caution: be careful not to twist and turn, as the towel applies that same motion to the knitting it is wrapped around—and we definitely don’t want that.
Step 4: The Blocking
Here comes the magic! Lay your damp sweater pieces back onto the blocking mat. Use your pre-soak measurements and the pattern schematic as guides to shape your pieces.
To ensure even stretching, start at the center and work your way out, gently coaxing your knitting to the required dimensions. I keep my pattern schematic or the written measurement info nearby. I actually have a waterproof paper cover I think about using after I have gotten the pattern soaked, so maybe take a minute yourself and slip your pattern into something to keep it dry. Having it handy reminds you to use the pattern specifications and don’t over (or under) stretch out your knitting. And regarding stretching and shaping: be careful not to stretch one area more than others, as this can lead to a distorted shape. Please go little by little, incrementally getting the growth and shape you desire. I may be a broken record but: It is very difficult to UNstretch the fiber as opposed to stretching it.
Now, use your pins and blocking wires to hold the pieces in the desired shape. If your piece has lacework or cables, make sure to pin these areas out so they become defined.
Step 5: The Wait
Now, patience is key. Let your sweater pieces dry completely. This portion used to fly by when we lived in Hawaii and St. Thomas. The climate there was magic for drying anything, and thick wool knits were never any trouble! Now that I am in a cooler, wetter climate, I’ve learned how long a long time can actually be! My patience has been sorely tested as I wait, and wait, and wait! Once dry, you'll find your pieces lay flat, and any lace or cable patterns are open and defined. They're now ready to be sewn together! I should note here that even with handknits that are not in pieces, I usually wait until after the soak and block to weave in ends. I find this especially helpful in the event I want or need to make changes to my knitted item. It may be the hemline needs adjusting, or the underarm area needs to have a few stitches to close holes.
A quick word about the crease lines from laying the pieces flat:
As your sleeves dry there will be a crease line on top and underneath. This will also occur noticeably on the sides for knit-in-the-round garments. Many people don’t notice these. I do, and it will drive me bananas if I don’t fix it! My quick fix is a light press with an iron. I set it at low steam for wool and I use a tea towel folded double placed on top of my knitting so that the iron never comes in direct contact with the knit. BUT BEFORE I DO THIS I ALWAYS TEST IRONING ON MY SWATCH. No kidding. If my swatch is unscathed, then I proceed. I am telling you there is never a good reason not to swatch, That square is a lifeline and worth its fiber weight in gold! A good, gentle press will remove the lines. If you are resistant to the iron you can lightly mist the crease lines with water from a spray bottle once you put on the knitted piece. Once it is damp, gently hand-press out the crease and allow it to air dry.
Different Fibers, Different Care
While we've focused on wool for this guide, different types of yarn require slightly varied approaches when it comes to blocking. Cotton is more prone to stretching when wet, while synthetic fibers may not retain their blocked shape without heat application. So let’s dig in a little more!
Wool: Wool and wool-blend yarns are some of the most forgiving when it comes to blocking. They respond well to wet blocking and easily retain their new shape once dried. One word of caution, though: Be gentle when you handle the wet pieces as they can stretch out of shape.
Cotton: Unlike wool, cotton fibers can stretch significantly when wet and may not spring back into shape as wool does. This means you must be extra careful not to overstretch cotton pieces during the blocking process. Let them dry flat, and they should hold the blocked shape well. You will find a lovely, crisp fabric once it is dry.
Synthetic Fibers: Synthetic fibers, such as acrylic, can be a bit trickier. They don't respond to wet blocking the same way natural fibers do. I haven’t had much experience with these, as I haven’t knit garments from acrylic before. However, for you Dear Knitting Friend, I polished my glasses and dug into research mode to ensure I had a little insight to offer you, and this is what I discovered. To effectively block synthetic pieces, you might need to apply gentle heat, like from our aforementioned steam iron. This technique, often referred to as "killing" the yarn, which I must confess is quite a distressing label for it, but it means that it sets the blocked shape permanently. However, be advised, it can also cause the yarn to lose some of its original texture and elasticity, so it's vital to approach it with caution. And please, please, PLEASE remember, whenever you use an iron on fiber, you should use a tea towel, or hand towel over the fiber, and test preferably on your swatch to ensure the process will not harm. (I know I said that before, but it is always worth the repeat!)
Silk: Silk yarns, with their beautiful sheen, are delicate and need careful handling. When blocking silk pieces, avoid wringing or twisting to remove water, as this can damage the fibers. Instead, press out the water gently using a towel. Like cotton, silk can also stretch significantly when wet, so be mindful of this during the blocking process. I am a chicken when it comes to silk and heat, so I do not iron silk. If you have found tips to help or experiences to share, pros or cons, please be a help to others and share in the comments!
Remember, no matter the yarn type, always refer to the care instructions provided by the yarn manufacturer. The more attention you pay to the specifics of each type of fiber, the more impressive your finished product will be.
There is a book on my shelf I highly recommend called "The Knitter's Book of Knowledge" by Debbie Bliss. https://www.amazon.com/Knitters-Book-Knowledge-Essential-Techniques/dp/145470926X It was given to me years ago, and has helped a time or two with a variety of things, not just soaking and blocking.
This next suggestion is on the recommendation of a friend who did purchase it and said she enjoyed it quite a lot: Craftsy's "Blocking Handknits" course. It is about 50 US bucks. https://www.craftsy.com/product/blocking-handknits-dvd-streaming/. I have not reviewed the class, but the teacher is well-regarded and knows her stuff.
The big thing to remember:
Never underestimate the power of blocking!
It's a game-changer that elevates your knitting projects, and honestly, if you are going to seam pieces together, it gives you an advantage of ease and positioning.
Share your tips and techniques below. I would love to hear things you have learned to do, and also avoid!
