Episode 1: Encourage Better Podcast
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In this episode I share about a recent sweater I completely reinvented: The Winston Sweater by Jane Richmond. I blogged about this one, and since finishing both that post and the sweater, I have been wearing it on repeat most days!
I share in this episode a bit about that bulky sweater knitting pattern, and I go in to a bit of detail about a good soak and block…well I go into detail about one…the other I am saving for another episode! So definitely share in the comments below all your savvy soaking and blocking tips and tricks! And maybe suggestions as to soap or cleaning agents for hand knit THAT DO NOT CONTAIN COCONUT. I am super allergic!
Podcast Transcript Below:
Aloha friend and welcome to Encourage Better: Knitting Adventures in Alaska podcast. You may be wondering, am I in the right place? Is this kind of podcast for me? Well, if knitting is your go to creative refuge, the place where you craft your best self, but some days stitching solo on the sofa feels a bit empty and lackluster... Turn on this podcast. Encourage Better takes you to Kodiak Island, Alaska, THE knitting adventure capital of the world. Okay...That is my take on it and not 100% official, but still entirely accurate! Track up mountain peaks, stand along the shore and romp around the forest of spruce trees all through your earbuds. Knitting tips, tricks and tales every episode. Encourage Better is the must listen to podcast to kickstart your knitting mojo and broaden your smile. Enjoy the episode. I'm so glad you're here.
(01:26)
Aloha from Alaska friend. We've just had a very rare occurrence here on Kodiak Island. This past weekend, a "hurricane" blew in from the Gulf, the Gulf of Alaska, and as with all storms and weather here, my unflappable neighbors took it all in stride. The intuitive self sufficient folks I am fortunate enough to live amongst are just really incredible humans. They keep pressing on, seldom distracted, and always impressing me with their self sufficient, determined manner. This really is a creative place to dwell. And speaking of creativity and creations, I am wearing my newly washed and freshly blocked Wanna-Be Winston sweater. This pattern adventure began with the original Winston sweater pattern by Jane Richmond, who is a brilliant pattern writer. Yes, she is a knitwear designer, but her pattern writing style is enjoyable and easy to follow. I share about my version, which is not at all like the original in a blog post. If you'd like to see the photos, feel free to head over to the blog, which can be found at encouragebetter.com/blog/alterationstoWinston, W-I-N-S-T-O-N pullover. I'd like to share a little of what I wrote there with you now.
(03:53)
I'd like to share my thoughts on this knitting adventure that I wrote and shared on the blog. So here it goes, Jane Richmond is a doll and a fabulous pattern writer for wardrobe-staple pieces. Also, she is a delightful human! When she and I connected about the Winston pullover over a year ago, the pattern was in the test phase. I worked at as written, only adding some color variations, nothing was changed from the written design though. Recently scrolling through Instagram, I noticed Jane was knitting Winston again. She was inviting others to join in! Thick, oversized and a perfect layering piece, the sweater would fit right into my winter wardrobe rotation. This time I wanted to take some liberties with the pattern. The results led to a creation that I love, but the knit was more inspired by Winston than actually was Winston. That idea is essential for my knitting, the recreation, and re-interpretation of making a pattern work for my creative endeavors, rather than knitting the pattern as is.
(05:25)
I will unpack that idea in other time for it's quite a thought to think. And right now I want to share this: within a week I have a sweater! Now it is necessary to keep that statement in proper context. In that same week, my husband built a new woodshed and filled it with lots of wood for this winter. He built an entire woodshed. I only made a sweater.
(06:00)
Let me hit the starting points of my version so you can get the foundations if you'd like to try. I went with three strands of yarn held together, which created a soft, beautiful, highly haloed fabric that draped like smooth silk and felt like the comfiest sweatshirt ever.
(06:32)
My first swatch I worked for gauge, which not surprisingly was off, but would be manageable. I did the math to see the differences in what I was getting and what needed to be gotten. It's probably important to mention here that I first swatched on the recommended needle size of U S 17, but the resulting fabric was not to my liking. I dropped down to fifteens and liked that fabric within the first couple of rows! I wanted my sweater to be of this material. So I was okay with figuring out the difference between the two and trying to bridge that gap. And so began the first of many updates--- spoiler alert! Totally worth it. As I was changing the stitch count for my off-base gauge, I then considered what if I tweak the increases just a little after all, I wanted to create a sweater that I would be pulling over most of my dresses and tunics this winter, it would be amusing to have a peek-a-boo feature, allowing what I would wear underneath to be accentuated.
(08:00)
Here's the part of the story where I caution you about many mistakes I have created for my self in the past. The solution to every successful rabbit-trail has always been straightforward and simple: swatch for changes. Yeah, that's my big secret pro tip that I'm sure everyone else already knew like years before me. I worked a sample of yarn-over increases and also the M1R and M1L called for in the pattern. Note: I worked a sample of yarn over increases and the M1R, and M1L called for in the pattern to note the differences when comparing the two. It is no surprise, but I'll tell you anyway, the measurements between working each were predominantly noticeable and also mathematically noticeable back to the math I went. Numbers were crunched to cast on the way the pattern instructed.
(09:27)
I was poised, ready to get some stitches made. And yeah, I know you're expecting this... I decided I wanted to cast on a different way. Now let me explain, hear me out. The pattern asked me to cast on just the back stitches work, some short row magic cast on for sleeves and the front, and then work in the round. But pattern, I said, because at this point we are on a first name basis pattern, I'm only going to have to come back and pick you up later to make the neck band. I know this because I knit you before and I kind of want to make a longer neck band anyway. And couldn't, I just work the short rows in 1x1 rib and then separate all the segments for sleeves and front and back? Pattern looked at me and rolled his eyes a little because it didn't think I was looking.
(10:34)
I was, it was an awkward moment. Then it said a bit exasperatedly, "I'm not sure exactly why you're asking me this because no matter what I have written on these pages, you seem to be disregarding this map."
(10:55)
Settle down, settle down, Winston! Can I call you by your first name, pattern?" Another eye roll. But I went on "Now, Winston, you are a fabulous pattern. And Jane is one of my knitting heroes, but are you really gonna take this personally? Me kind of improvising. I mean, you are my muse, aren't you? There's a lot to be said for that." Winston, the pattern softened a bit, but then surprisingly offered this advice. "You realize if you are headed in that direction, you need some further adjusted numbers, unless you want the neck to be a cowl neck. But if you shrink down those starting numbers, you need to compensate for the original cast on numbers needed, which don't forget: You already adjusted. I nodded considering. Winston pattern was on a roll and continued. "And Mel, is it okay if I call you Mel? Or would you rather be addressed as Sabotuer?" I shot Winston a look, cheeky, pattern. Unfazed, he continued, "You need to make sure you have the segments worked out for where to put the stitch markers when you actually get to the place where you are starting to work each individual section. Hmmm… Though a bit snarky, this pattern did have my back—and front and sleeves, too.
(12:43)
Which speaking of sleeves"You know Pattern, Jane tweaked you already in a seed stitch or moss stitch or something with massive texture that I just adored, and I was thinking…" Winston stopped me dead in my tracks. "No, no new stitch patterns because you didn't swatch for it, Mel." Winston pattern wasn't having it... Until I whispered, "But fisherman's rib... Can you just imagine some incredible fishermen's rib just popping on your sleeves?" Just like that. We were both on the same. Yeah.
(13:34)
Let me leave my further interactions. Talking to a pattern behind us and get back to the mechanics. Here's what you need on your radar if you plan to replicate my version of this sweater. You start at the neck and work in the round in 1x1 rib, right out the gate, adding a few short rows to give a proper balance five in total. Knit one full round before segmenting portions, which would be the left sleeve front, right sleeve back and set markers for raglan increases. After that set up round you have to maintain front and back stitches in stockinette. The sleeves will fluctuate between *k1 p1*, one for round, and then knit all the stitches the following round to create the broken rib, or as some folks call that fishermen's rib. I just called it a decadent swath of texture.
(14:38)
Plus, since I am disclosing all other things, I need to let you know, keeping the fishermen rib in pattern starts off a bit fiddly while incorporating the new created from the yarn over raglan increases. You have to be mindful of working the stitches as they present, integrating them into the established pattern flow. Now, regardless of your method of increases, you would have to be prepped for this anyway, but it is worth sharing the need to be attentive. I had to fix mistakes over and over until finally the light bulb went on. The ending result was completely worth the mental gymnastics. I moved through the increases and set aside the sleeves. I knit the sweater body to a length more in line with skimming my hips rather than ending below them. When I prepped to knit the hem, I broke the mohair strand and continued only with the remaining two strands.
I did the same with the sleeve cuffs. Rejoining for the sleeves was straightforward. I picked up the underarm stitches and maintain the established pattern, tapering the sleeves slightly as I work toward the cuff. Now for the cuffs, I did drop down to a U S 11 needle to pull in the cuffs a bit. Okay. Well, in the spirit of transparency, I should explain the real motivator behind this particular change. I was tired of knitting the sleeves with the 60 inch cable I had used for the body. And I could not find another shorter cable for my interchangeables. So upon finding my 11 circulars, which they were not interchangeable, but were the desired, shorter cable. I thought these would be the perfect circumference. And then my next thought was, if I use these, it will draw the cuffs in nicely.
So I decided to test a few rounds to make sure. It worked as I imagined! And more importantly, alleviated my frustration. So it was a win all around. Knitting this project on large needles, intent on getting it done without knitting other things was quite fun. I thought about the amount of yarn I was putting to work creating it, which made me quite happy. The mohair I had in stash for over a year, needed to be used. Before Winston, there had been projects that I considered using it for, but the yardage wasn't adequate or holding it along with another yarn, just wasn't a good match.
Interestingly, I bought the main color for this project, knowing that I would hold two strands of the Moonshine Yarn together, but with no intention of adding the mohair. When I was looking for my big needles, I noticed the mohair skein on the cabinet's top shelf. It was a perfect color match. And then when I estimated the yardage for a shorter version of the sweater, it was well within the required yardage. The rich halo created holding it with the two strands is a visual delight. And honestly the softest thing you could hope to touch. I am delighted with this project.
(19:04)
Some discoveries, I found discovery. Number one, my narrow thoughts, keep my knitting experiences in a box. Seriously. I say I only knit in gray and Brown and greens and other earth tones. And I'm limiting myself for someone who loves adventure and freedom. That seems a silly thing to do the beautiful pink lavender fiber I used for this particular niche works for me. It pairs nicely with many of the dresses I have sewn for myself and I'm so taken with the color. I've worn it four days in less than a week.
Discovery Number Two: I need to allow myself opportunities to complete quick knit projects! Knocking this sweater out so quickly has fueled momentum for me, not just in knitting, but a few big projects for work that have been using a lot of energy over the last several months. Momentum also for my knitting, too. I have been relentlessly knitting my second Shifty Sweater, and yet I still have 800 million stitches to go before I wear that thing! And yes, I am absolutely as confused as you as to why it's taking me so long to knock out this second iteration of the sweater. That last time around took me just a few weeks of perceived progress is killing me. So when I pop Winston on and off my needles, I got a total boost. Now I'm practically finished with the cardigan that I started just five days ago, which also happens to be worked on large needles--- this time with four strands of yarn.
Discovery Number Three: using up yarn I have in stash fills me with a sense of good stewardship. It is a feeling I want to be repeated. And so I need to be intentional and look closely at the material I have on hand. Even though my Wannabe Winston only used one skein of stash, simply incorporating that one skein has pricked my attention to be mindful of using what I have more often.
Discovery Number Four: Though, I'm sharing it last on the list, this thought was ever present as I worked each round of Winston: how to thoughtfully use and reuse patterns that I have already purchased. Once used, patterns should be foundations for further knitting adventures to utilize as a jumping off point for creative exploration!
(22:10)
I think if I sat down with Jane and compared her Winston pullover design with my wannabe Winston sweater, we would both laugh over the fact that two patterns were nothing alike, not in yarn, yardage, gauge, stitches, cast on method, needle size, sleeves. I was inspired to knit along. The offer to join in and make a bulkier than my usual knit. Just like every reader, just as every knitter, reading this blog or listening to the audio podcast, I have plenty of knowledge and skill. And so do you, we all have the power within us to create alter and beautify as we are led, we just need a good foundation, willingness to experiment.
And I think the most essential piece, a supportive community to help us set goals, develop strategies, and provide accountability through adventure. And that big idea is one I hope to explore and unpack a bit more with you, but not today. Thanks for spending time with me and allowing me to share my thoughts before you go, remember your thoughts, hold value and often spark my creativity. So share in the comments on the blog, connect with me on Instagram or via email.
And that sums up rather nicely...the blog post does... The adventure that I took knitting, this sweater I'm wearing. Now I will link the actual blog post in the show notes. So you can have a look at the finished project. So I've been wearing Wanna Be Winston quite frequently. And I just gave him his first bath. I added some knitters-IQ liquid soap, which smells so good. It's a rather light blend of lavender and essential oils, but it's strong enough you can smell it as it bubbles and foams in the tub, but a lot lighter. So it's a very faint smell, kind of like, you know, when it's summertime and the breeze is really light and just barely gives you the sense of flowers on it, you know, just barely, but still there. Yeah. That's the kind of light scent that this wonderful soap Gibbs I'm really liking it. It's the kind of scent that you have to really inhale deeply to make sure you've caught it.
(25:11)
So well, I clean my hand knits, let me just share how I do it. I fill the tub with warm water and soap first. Then I lay my knits on top and giving them a few moments just to kind of soak in the water after a minute or three pass, I will very gently go and press the sweater or knitted pieces into the water and then just leave it to soak up the soapy water for approximately 25 to 30 minutes. I come back and again, still really gently, I'll swish the knitted garments about. Most times I'll turn it over and then let it soak again. And the water just kind of seeps into it. So you know, I'll let it soak again another five, 10 minutes. This is the kind of soap you don't have to rinse. So when it's all done, I'll pull the plug and I let the water drain pressing the garments just as they are lying, no wringing them out.
After all the water is gone, I will gently drape them over the large spigot for a few minutes to allow the excess water to trickle out. The water will pool up in areas that are hanging at the ends. I'll place my hands on either side of the small segments of the sweater or the hand knit, socks, whatever I've got in the tub and just press my hands together. I'm careful not to rub or twist, but firmly continued to express any extra water. Then I'll grab an oversized beach towel and I'll roll up my wet bit of knitting inside of it. I'll fold the towel around it and press it down for all I'm worth. Sometimes I'll actually stand on the towel. It's a big beach towel. And so I'll roll it in and stand on it. And to be honest, I will sometimes jump on it and press it down for all I'm worth. The towel gets soaked. My garment gets dry and then I'll lay it out to block.
(27:27)
Now the blocking is a story for another day, but blocking is magical, such an important, do-not-skip-over-it, kind of step. So if you have tips or tricks, how to clean and or so, and block your hand knits, I would love to hear, so email me any thoughts or suggestions to melissaatencouragebetter.com. So that kind of wraps up our time together today, which I am so thankful for, so grateful that you've chosen to spend this time with me. And until next time: you were created intentionally to be creative, which may be easier said than done. So whether you're spinning yarn for your next project or hanging on by a thread, you are valuable just simply being you is valuable and valued. I hope our paths cross again very soon. Bye for now.
